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Ice cream: summer 2018 trends

The solstice of last June 21 gave the official green light to summer 2018. A summer which, however, from a weather point of view has not yet shown itself fully. However, it is clear that the ice cream season, the most intense, the truest, the most beautiful, has already begun.

A walk by the sea, an outing in the most fascinating places from a tourist point of view, a tour of the avenues of our Italian villages and, almost invariably, ice cream: the Italian summer is this too. For young people who hope to find their first love, for parents who accompany their children and for the wisest who find refreshment on summer nights.

We parted ways with the winter trends, we find ourselves with the tastes of summer. Many of these, moreover, have already been presented during the Gambero Rosso 2018 Gelaterie d’Italia Guide event, created with Orion, and held at Sigep in Rimini. Gentlemen, there is a predominant color: green.

Green not only because it is the characterizing color of nature, the countryside and the quality of the 0 km ingredients, but also because it is the chromatic effect of the most tasted flavours.

Some clarification is a must to avoid repetition in the course of the post.

First: extravagance is the order of the day. Globalization has also opened up the diffusion of ingredients and products that are not exactly classic. Above all: the pork flavor comes from the USA, broad beans and pecorino from Italy.

Second: registering a brand is becoming customary to avoid duplication and imitation of more innovative tastes. Rosemary Baby, with a raspberry and rosemary flavour, and Venere Nera, with a blackberry flavored with lavender, are the most striking examples.

Third and last: the strongest trend. A vegan, healthy, sustainable ice cream with aromatic herbs, spices and essential oils: the line is now drawn. Ginger, cinnamon, vegetable ingredients to fully replace animal ones, rose essential oil syrup: will they be able to undermine hazelnut and chocolate?

It’s becoming a classic

It is now becoming a classic. Or it already has. Pistachio is one of the most requested flavors in 2018. It is among the most chosen flavours, it has rightfully entered the artisan gelato tradition, it is a simple recipe, it is good for a number of reasons.

Where is the news? In pairings: from the USA they suggest it with lime, from South America with ricotta, from Europe they combine it with fruit and orange, in Italy they increasingly link it to wines as in the case of passito. Speaking of orange, a small digression on the pistachio theme: watch out for the kumquat, also commonly known as the Chinese mandarin.

But green is not only pistachio: we also find it in mint paired with wild fennel, in green apple with cinnamon essential oil (always arriving from America) and, if you like, in olive oil that even goes well with basil better if red.

Alcohol goes well with ice cream

Until now we were used to seeing it in combination: a drink or a cocktail together with ice cream for an aperitif. Today we also find it as an ingredient: beer and vermouth and ginger are the most suitable, but also Lagavulin whiskey and Chardonnay apples and pistachio. However, keep an eye on the production techniques: alcohol complicates the creaming of the ice cream, it is necessary to reduce the sugar.

Basically less sugar and more panache.

Super food also affects “ice cream”

From the Accademia dei Maestri Gelatieri comes the solution that combines taste and greeting: moringa, like the homonymous plant that grows in India at the foot of the Himalayas, a super food appreciated for its beneficial virtues with 9 essential amino acids, 27 vitamins, 46 different antioxidants and many mineral salts.

New techniques for sustainability: nitrogen arrives

There is a new technique that aims to establish itself: it is the nitrogen one: cream based on the desired flavor wrapped in a cloud of nitrogen. Electricity consumption is reduced and water consumption is completely eliminated. Objective: to create a quality product, easily customizable, and save money.

With the halo-halo you make it big on social networks and in taste

It is certainly the king of social media, the most photographed, the most instagrammable, perhaps it is also one of the strangest: it is the halo-halo, it comes from the dessert tradition of the Philippines.

It is not a classic ice cream made with cream, milk, sugar and fruit. Red and white beans, condensed milk, mixed with various fruits according to taste and recipes (even online you can find hundreds of them), necessary coconut, sometimes purple potatoes (they help to give that very purplish colour, with the perfect nuance, for the approval of fans on social networks). Halo-Halo means mix-mix. Or mix everything for the benefit of a like.

Waiting for Godot
Beckett built one of the most famous plays of the mid-twentieth century on it. Mr. Godot kept waiting, almost nothing is known about him, we only know that “he won’t come today, he will come tomorrow”. Black ice cream is to gastronomy what Godot is to the theatre: will it be the right year for his definitive affirmation? Taken from the ash obtained from the coconut and the consequent extraction of activated carbon, we have been talking about black ice cream for some years now. In a world, however, still tied to emotions, still tied to colors.

Quality, training and innovation are still the keywords for summer 2018 ice cream. Refinement, variety, territoriality and proximity: many different ways to enrich your Facebook jewellery.

ANTONELLO MINOIA

Freelance journalist, with a huge passion for carbohydrates, for sport and for all that is writing, texts, contents and communication. As a child I wrote fairy tales, when I grew up I wanted to be a poet or a writer. They told me: “Don’t tell stories.” And instead, that’s exactly what I do: I tell stories.

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    Interview with Gianfranco Buccafurni

    Experience and tradition put at the service of research and innovation to give life to what is a unique product. The ice cream maker Gianfranco Buccafurni, who chose the technology for his place, tells us how it all began and how “the Kingdom of Gelato”, a renowned Calabrian ice cream shop, was born.

    Yours is an expert and wise hand, can you briefly tell us where your story starts from?

    Our story began way back in 1937 when grandfather Giovan Battista, inside his water mill, produced flours and starches for the renowned Calabrian and Sicilian pastry shops. Hence the idea, after a few years, of opening the first family ice cream shop, managed for a very long time by my 90 year old and working mother. So as you can imagine my story starts from behind the counter, many years ago.

    You were awarded as “Expert and guarantor of traditions and artisan gelato in the world” at SIGEP in Rimini 2018: how important are these awards to you?

    Surely the awards stimulate you to do better and to compare yourself with other people, other methods, other realities. Recognition, however, must correspond to reality: the right response to those who enter a place honored by illustrious awards and expect to find what they can’t find elsewhere, i.e. professionalism, competence and exaggerated quality of ingredients.

    How do you see Italian ice cream in the world, what role can it play?

    With the right denomination and the correct setting, Italian ice cream can and in many cases is already the ambassador of Made in Italy in the world.

    Experience and tradition, with an eye towards constant research and innovation: these are the guiding principles of FB Showcases, which you have chosen for your new venue. What role do technology and innovation play in a traditional ice cream shop?

    Technology and innovation walk hand in hand with the new frontiers of ice cream which, fortunately, can return to ancient flavors also thanks to the use of modern technologies.

    The “Cremosity” is the main peculiarity of your ice cream: what are the secrets to producing a creamy ice cream?

    Over the years the continuous research and the continuous exploration of noble ingredients – such as cream, the yolk of fresh eggs, raw and naturally certified Sila milk and olive oil – have allowed us to reach a very high level of creaminess of our ice cream, lasting over time.

    The word “art” is hidden in the term “artisan”: art is the ability to express something through a work. In your opinion, what does the art of artisan gelato consist of?

    The craftsman is not a mixer of pre-packaged and pre-weighed ingredients. The craftsman is the one who creates the recipe, the product, the new taste and the new ingredient. All this to create the unique, inimitable and original recipe.

    A quality product needs to be exalted, stored and displayed in the right way. Can you tell us the reasons that led you to choose FB Showcases products for your new venue?

    The very hot Calabrian summers put a very creamy product like ours to the test, which needs constant and strong cold. In this sense, the Fb Showcases windows guarantee an excellent temperature that does not abandon you during work, as well as an impetuous exposure to our creations.

    The “Virna” showcase you have chosen guarantees elegance without excesses and extravagance: do you find it in line with the taste of your ice cream?

    The “Virna” showcase was chosen by me precisely for its characteristics of elegance, refinement and visibility of the product, but above all for its technology and cold power that never leaves you.

    Choosing the best showcase is a fundamental aspect for an ice cream maker. What factors influenced your choice?

    All gelato makers want a better showcase that enhances and preserves their creations.

    How did the tastes of the area, in your case Calabria, influence the choices regarding the products and furnishings of your restaurant?

    The continuous research on local products often leads to strange culinary pairing rituals such as fiordilatte with Tropea onion jam, pecorino and nduja, caciocavallo and rosemary, chocolate with bergamot pepper and dried figs immersed in a huge and spectacular display window surrounded by a tile mosaic in full harmony with the landscape and the surrounding hill.

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      Interview with Paolo Brunelli, FB testimonial

      The hills of Agugliano and the sea of Senigallia, the experimentation and technique typical of jazz, the family tradition and the strong inclination to technology and innovation, the classicism of chocolate and the ability to deal with changes in taste: to change the history of such a popular product, for all budgets, like ice cream, you need to have the desire to take it even beyond modernity . Music (it is appropriate to say) and score by Paolo Brunelli, born in 1965, from the Marches, Master of the homonymous Gelateria Cioccolateria in the province of Ancona.

      Photo by brambillaserrani.it

      Let’s start right from the music. All his creative experience seems to be guided by music and brought back to music. What values does it bring you?
      Music, jazz in particular, has been a part of my life for a long time and is still a part of it today. It led me to discover an important model to work on: knowing the technique in an iron way to then strongly develop improvisation and, improvising and experimenting, incorporate as much technique as possible to reach a higher level.
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      The family business has deep roots, in 1934 in Agugliano. How important is it to have grown up in a family of restaurateurs, how important is family tradition in the ability to improvise and experiment?

      Having a background of taste memories is essential in my opinion. The ability to recognize tastes, to know how to dominate the sense of smell, also in relation to traditional cuisine, is very important for developing one’s own perception. Experimenting in the cold and in the pastry also passes through these memories, these experiences, because it is the basis of knowing how to innovate. Since the early 1980s I have been able to develop my career, also by being at my mother’s side. And, every step was devoted to innovation and experimentation, having clear in mind, however, what the foundations were.

      Best chocolate ice cream in Italy according to the Gelaterie d’Italia 2017 guide, three cones also according to the 2018 guide are just the latest awards. How much are these prizes worth?

      They are certainly important, from a business point of view and from a personal point of view. But I am convinced that these acknowledgments must come after a process of credibility and a lot of work. The end consumer recognizes the rewards, but truly appreciates the journey you’ve made. If there isn’t a real and sincere relationship with the consumer, if there isn’t research, training and experimentation, the awards and titles remain only on paper and don’t offer the added value they deserve.</span

      Is the quality of the raw materials or continuous research more important in the success of a pastry chef and an ice cream parlor?

      Definitely both. The high quality of the raw materials is certainly the basis of the product. But personal and professional growth, research, the desire to work on oneself and on one’s own product must be grafted onto this basis. In this sense, the modern gelateria must look to the future, must be able to offer a product that winks at technology and innovation. The new generations must continually work on training, even in sectors and areas not strictly connected to ours. I’m thinking of beverages, of traditional cooking classes. We must always be growing, in formation.

      Chocolate is certainly a distinctive mark of your own and of your creations. But if you had to choose your favorite flavour, which one would you recommend?

      I would say hazelnut, among the most traditional. But we must never forget that even the pushed tradition must be innovated, it must be expanded. This is what I also recommend to the younger generations: always innovate, look for new paths to taste. I am thinking of gastronomic grafts, olive oil, spices, cheeses. We must also be able to look at new tastes. There are already new frontiers in this sense. We have to work on those.

      Photo by brambillaserrani.it

      Ice cream in particular is becoming a real Italian excellence. What are the margins for improvement and what are the risks of excessive diffusion?

      We must take advantage of technology, innovation and training to overturn the sector and always recompose it according to new rules. New ferment is maturing, the desire to innovate is growing because the challenges are new. I could say that the old ice cream parlor is now dead. If we have the ability to always study and create new styles, we break down the risk of Italian sounding and push the limit to reach further and further. In doing so, the Italian school will never be reachable.

      After Avanguardia Gelato, he also published Gelateria for all seasons. From creamy to pralines, 365 days of delicious ideas. Is the secret also in sharing experiences?

      Never be afraid to share your experiences. Because the exchange of knowledge remains decisive even in the sectors of haute patisserie and ice cream. We almost need to share our ideas, even small personal secrets.

      “Gelateria for all seasons” in addition to being the title of your latest book, is it also a strong vision in overcoming the limit of periodicity?

      Inevitably, ice cream is a product that is mainly consumed in the summer. But there are ways to overcome this limit. Also in this case innovation comes to meet us. The strategies can be different and all valid. We have to take advantage of technology to bring ice cream into the homes of Italians, so as to be able to consume it even in winter. We have to bring modern ice cream to haute cuisine with experimentation. We have to work on seasonal adjustment through the proposal of ever new tastes linked to the quality of the products and through contaminations with traditional cuisine.

      ANTONELLO MINOIA

      Freelance journalist, with a huge passion for carbohydrates, for sport and for all that is writing, texts, contents and communication. As a child I wrote fairy tales, when I grew up I wanted to be a poet or a writer. They told me: “Don’t tell stories.” And instead, that’s exactly what I do: I tell stories.

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        Ice cream is good for you. Not only for the spirit

        Memories, sensations, emotions. That exit out of town, that cone by the sea, that ice cream by the lake, the cup in the mountain pastry shop. Real madeleines of Proustian memory inextricably linked to the taste of an ice cream.

        But a good ice cream is not only good for the spirit and the heart. Let’s discover together the benefits of a food that favors the increase of HDL cholesterol, the “good” one, and the decrease of bad cholesterol.

        Let’s dispel a myth: ice cream doesn’t make you fat. On the contrary, the artisan one with quality ingredients is good for health (naturally in not excessive doses, as always), provides nutrients and vitamins, provides energy, replenishes liquids, activates the pleasure circuit, putting you in a good mood.< /span>

        Seasonal ailments: ice cream yes or no?

        Colds, flu, winter ailments: is ice cream good for you, can it relieve the situation or does it worsen our condition? It is necessary to make some distinctions.

        Ice cream is an ideal solution in case of sore throat, thanks to the refreshing and vaguely analgesic action brought by the cold, it can give relief to inflamed regions of the oral cavity . In this case it would be preferable to choose a fruit-flavored ice cream, avoiding the milk contained in creams which increases the production of mucus).

        The opposite situation in case of flu: it significantly reduces body temperature, forcing the body to “divert” part of its energies from the response to infections to restore homeostasis .

        Lunch break: no more sandwich!

        And if during the lunch break, better if in the summer, we left the sandwich at home and ran to the first ice cream shop? That wouldn’t be a bad idea. Ice cream has more advantages than the classic sandwich: it gives us a sense of satiety, nourishes, refreshes, and in most cases is easily digestible.

        Thanks to its properties and ingredients (a good ice cream never causes thirst), ice cream brings water to our body, a very important element especially in warm months.

        Music for our palate

        Scientific studies show that eating ice cream triggers a pleasure mechanism in our brain that is very similar to the one we get by listening to our favorite music. Sweet notes for our palate, therefore, and positive effects on our mood.

        The return to childhood, a never forgotten love, the right reward for a difficult working day: there can be many ideas, there can be many situations in which a good ice cream saves our mood: coffee and tiramisu to recharge our body too, black cherry to relax, chocolate as a natural warrior against a moment of sadness.

        Easily absorbed sugars affect the brain area and our face is more relaxed. Thus also facilitating relationships with others.

        Consumption of ice cream also stimulates the production of serotonin (the hormone of happiness). In the milk present in the creams, there is also tryptophan, a natural tranquilizer for the nervous system.

        Be careful though: if you have problems with insomnia, a fruit ice cream is better.

        The most suitable flavors for our well-being

        Ice cream also and above all means a fairly wide range of flavours.

        It starts with dark chocolate which helps us to be in a good mood with vitamin B3 and minerals such as magnesium. Remaining in hazelnut creams, there is an excellent supply for skin and hair (vitamin E) and excellent support for sportsmen.

        Almost all red fruit tastes: blackberries with vitamin C and E have antioxidant substances, strawberries and raspberries contain fiber and mineral salts in quantity and blueberries have the most powerful antioxidant effect of any fresh fruit.

        Let’s not forget the pistachio: vitamins, mineral salts, proteins and ‘good’ fats, excellent energy snack.

        ANTONELLO MINOIA

        Freelance journalist, with a huge passion for carbohydrates, for sport and for all that is writing, texts, contents and communication. As a child I wrote fairy tales, when I grew up I wanted to be a poet or a writer. They told me: “Don’t tell stories.” And instead, that’s exactly what I do: I tell stories.

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